For my last day in Prague, Lloyd and Michael arranged for Rena's translator Galia to show me around the city. I had been so busy working, that I had yet to actually see the city since my dinner our first night. Prague is simply one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Built by some of Europe's finest architects and artists over the course of more than 900 years, its spired buildings, famed bridges and powerful statues are at once impressive and charming.

What I hadn't realized, until I was told, is that while Prague has been through many wars, unlike most European cities, it was never bombed.

"This is why it still has the look, feel and smell of ancient time - the smell of old Europe. This sentence is quoted from the Prague website. I believe it is meant as metaphor, rather than an aroma.

At right - Roman and Galia stand outside the Presidential Palace. The flag that flies behind them signifies that the President is currently in the Palace.

Roman, the armorer met us in town and presented me with the my sword and scabbard from the show as a gift. I was very touched. He also gave me a catalogue of the excellent arms his group manufactures. If you're in the market, their prices and workmanship are great. You can contact Roman Spacil at www.merlet.cz.

At left - One of the ornately engraved antique shotguns I got the honor to hold.

With both Galia and Roman as my guides I had a wonderful day walking around a charming and beautiful city. Unfortunately the medieval arms museum was closed but Roman arranged a visit to his friends museum shop where I got to admire and hold some extraordinary antique firearms. The craftsmanship was amazing and the artistry of the etching was finer than anything I'd ever seen. One of the shotguns had belonged to the Kaiser and had gorgeous damascus patterned barrels.

At right - this chart explains the meaning of the different symbols that the Nazis forced those they considered "unsuitable" to wear.

We visited a war museum with exhibits from both world wars. There was a disturbing chart on the wall which illustrated a series of coloured triangles that every citizen had to wear when the Nazis occupied their country. The triangles marked criminals, gypsies, political dissidents, the mentally ill and ordinary citzens. If any of these happened to be Jewish, a second yellow triangle was added to make the Star of David. So much organization for something so very wrong.

At left - Tony on the one of the many bridges in Prague.

The city of Prague was a delight. We walked the narrow cobbled streets for hours starting at the top of the hill and descending to the river. Every building had a unique character all its own reflecting the vast age and history of Praha or Prague. The city sprawls lazily on both sides of the Vlatava river. Boats glide up and down filled with tourists, much like those on the Seine in Paris. The water level passes over gentle weirs and under old bridges thick with pedestrian traffic. Boats are able to bypass the water stair level changes by utilizing a narrow channel on the far side of river. We returned to the main square and saw the famous clock and the place of execution in the daylight. People stroll the streets and sample pastries, coffee and stronger libations at numerous cafes and restaurants lining the square.

At right - this stained glass window, illustrating the resurrection of Christ, is one one of the beautiful windows in the church of St. Vitus.

I especially enjoyed touring the church of St. Vitus with its stunning stained glass windows and beautiful chapels. It's not as big as the Notre Dame or the cathedral in Seville, but you could still fit two football fields inside lined end to end. Beneath the church are buried the ancient royalty of Prague including Vaclav and his father. Upstairs, there is a chapel to St. Vaclav, also known as King Wencelas just like in the Christmas Carol, with a magnificent hanging lamp and studded door. Wencelas was murdered by his brother. Sometimes it's not so good to be the king.

We crossed the river from Kafka's neighborhood to the old city gates on the opposite side. The bridge is lined on both sides with larger than life statues from one end to the other. Each statue is an accurate replica carved by the local artists guild to replace the originals that are being preserved in the less corrosive atmosphere of the museum. After only a few years they have already taken on the patina of age.

One of the more popular statues promises to grant your wish if you rub the feet. Needless to say, those bronze tootsies do quite a business and are very shiny. On a pillar below the bridge by the waters edge is a statue of the knight Bruncvik and his lion. Legend has it that Bruncvik was a thirteenth century Crusader who befriended a wounded lion. The lion became his constant companion and the two of them were reputed to be quite ferocious in battle.

We stopped for a bite and a beer in an atmospheric artists pub that Roman likes to frequent. I could tell it was authentically Bohemian, unlike the squeeky clean tourist bars we had passed because of its homey decor. There were two bulbs hanging on wires from the ceiling, only one with a shade. The tables were rough wood and had seen several lifetimes of wear. Roman said he liked to come here Sunday mornings and read the paper over a big mug of coffee. We had a fragrant spiced cheese thing and a beer to wash it down before moving on to a popular pub called the Golden Tiger.

At right - At night, the lights of Saint Vitus Church cast a golden glow on the Prague streets.

Golden Tiger was the first pub Galia had visited when she came to Prague and she wanted to share the tradition. It was crowded with Czechs and tourists alike. Small tables were crammed into every available corner and its expected you will share a table with those already lucky enough to have a seat. It no place to be shy and a great place to work on your language skills. I recognized half a dozen different tongues and several others that defied my limited knowledge. In the center of the room just inside the door sits a giant beer tap with an aproned beermeister filling tankards and pitchers almost without a break. Waiters practically run from the tap to the table to keep the thirsty crowd happy. Snacks and edibles are served on small plates that reminded me of the tapas bars in Spain.

We emerged from the pleasant cacophony to the relative quiet of the streets. The city had put on her night finery and was transformed yet again.The clock and the square, the churches, the bridges and all the shops glowed in a rainbow of lights and colours. It was breathtakingly beautiful.

There was so much to see I couldn't possibly do everything in one day. Top of the list is the castle and cathedral at the top of the hill that commands a view of the whole city. Would I go back? In a heartbeat. If you're ever in the neighborhood, stop by. Prague is a city not to be missed. Best always, Anthony De Longis